8390 Cazenovia Rd., Manlius, NY 13104  Phone (315) 682-1118 
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Our Guarantee
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Planting And Care Guides
    How To Grow A Overwinter Cannas
    How To Grow A Overwinter Callas
    Watering Guide
    Tree And Shrub Planting Guide
    Mum Planting And Care Guide
    How To Overwinter Mums
    Mulching Tips

    What is Mushroom Compost?

    Gift/Rewards Cards

    Plantskydd Animal Repellent
    Plants Resistant to Deer

    Garden and House Plants Potentially Harmful To Pets

Gardening Know How
Our Guarantee
  • All Cross Creek quality nursery stock is guaranteed for one full year, provided that proper care is given.
  • A store credit will be issued for the purchase price with original receipt.
  • The credit may be used towards any services or merchandise.
  • Perennials, annuals and hardgoods are excluded.
  • No credit for plants damaged by nature or animals.
  • Please ask us for further details.
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How To Grow and Overwinter Cannas
  • Start the rhizomes in pots indoors, a month before the last frost, and put them in a warm place to start growing roots.
  • Wait until the soil is warm before planting them outside.
  • When frost kills the tops in fall, dig up the rhizomes and dry them for a few days before storing them in a box of damp peat moss for the winter.
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How To Grow And Overwinter Callas
  • Plant rhizomes 2 - 3 inches deep, about the time of last frost.
  • They will start blooming in 6 - 8 weeks.
  • To store for winter, dig when the leaves turn yellow or after frost in fall.
  • Shake off the soil and let the rhizomes dry for a few days, then remove leaf bases and roots before packing the rhizomes in dry peat, sawdust, or crumpled newspaper.
  • Store in a dark place at 50 - 60 degrees F for the winter.
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Watering Guide
How you water your planting will make all the difference.

Water is vital while the plant establishes a more extensive root system during the first year, but don't stop there. Continue a scaled back regimen of watering as well as periodic fertilization in the following seasons. Water is especially critical right before and after the Winter. Please water your trees and shrubs this spring.
For new Plantings: Please follow the suggested watering below. If you have questions regarding older plants please ask.

In the Spring, water new plants 2 -3 times per week, count at least “20” per plant depending on the temperature and amount of rain daily. Continue into the hotter months at the same rate or more as needed.
Letting soil dry between watering is beneficial as it actually increases soil structure, however try not to dry it out to the point that your new plants wilt.

In the Summer, water frequently, everyday in the same manner with a count of at least “20” per 2 gallon container and up, and “30 - 45” on larger root ball trees and shrubs for 1-2 weeks initially. Then water every other or ever third day, same count for a month. Remainder of season : water at least one to two times per week. In the case of large trees with over 20” root balls, you should invest in soaker hose or lay the open end of the hose at the trunk on a trickle for up to two hours (depending on hose type) several times per week to achieve deep, even watering.

Fall planting brings cooler weather and rain. This is a great time to get root systems to establish, but you still need to pay close attention to a schedule of watering. Don’t be fooled by cooler temperatures, rain may be absent from the weather pattern. Generally you can follow the directions for Spring watering above. Be sure to give all your trees and shrubs a good deep watering once more in November before the ground freezes. Plants will remain hardy through harsh desiccating winter winds and be ready to please you in the next season.
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Tree And Shrub Planting Guide
as recommended by the National Arborist Association
  • The root mass of a container grown plant should be sliced vertically two to three times with a sharp knife.
  • Pull the burlap back from the top of the ball to allow easy water movement into the root ball.
  • The planting hole should be no deeper than the root ball, but considerably wider and with sloped sides. Where drainage is poor, the tree should be planted shallow, with the ball several inches above grade. Note the soil berm to facilitate watering.
  • If properly watered and maintained, container grown trees and shrubs can be planted any time of year. The most important factor in successfully planting containerized stock or container-grown trees is maintaining adequate soil moisture to encourage the roots to grow out into the surrounding soil.
  • If burlapped the burlap will have to be removed or folded down at planting, this decreases the “wicking” effect and enhances water infiltration. All twine should be removed from the trunk of the tree to avoid girdling.
  • Larger trees often come with wire baskets to maintain the integrity of the root ball in handling. Although impractical to remove the entire basket, it is preferable to cut away as much as possible once the tree is situated in the planting hole. This eliminates interference with rakes or lawnmowers and allows the roots to spread freely near the surface.
The planting hole.

The hole should be atleast 18 - 24 inches wider in diameter than the root ball If the soil is compacted, the hole should be 3 - 5 times the width of the root ball, with the hole wider at the top than bottom as the root growth will be mostly shallow and horizontal. The hole should never be deeper then the root ball.

In areas where the soil is dense clay, as it is in much of our area, the tree should be planted slightly shallow, with 3 - 5 inches of the ball higher than the original grade. The exposed root ball should be covered with an inch of soil and 2-3 inches of mulch.

Do not put gravel in the bottom of the hole, it does not aid in drainage.

Work the soil around the root ball so that no air pockets are left. Firm the soil so that the tree is vertical and adequately supported but do not pack the soil. Water thoroughly while backfilling.

Remove all tags or labels so that they will not girdle the trunk or branches as the tree grows.
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Mum Planting And Care Guide
Home Grown Hardy Mums at Cross Creek Nursery

At Cross Creek Nursery, we grow over 3,000 Mums from start to finish in over 30 varieties offering early, mid, late and extended late season flowering.
Our first varieties will be available in mid–August and continue through late October.
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How To Overwinter Mums
Don’t Trash Your Mums!
Save those fall purchased pots of mums: They make lovely perennial additions to the landscape. But don’t plant them in the garden now. (They may not root well and could succumb to winter cold.) Instead, move the pots to a cool place, such as an unheated garage, and don’t trim them back. Water them occasionally throughout the winter. When little tufts of green emerge from the base of the plants in early spring, prune back the dead stems and the plants out in the garden. Then the bargain mums you bought in the fall will grow into vigorous plants that should survive subsequent winters in champion style. – Organic Gardening Sept./Oct. 1999

Use this method if you buy them early enough in the season:
The hardy chrysanthemum, or mum, is America’s favorite autumn perennial. But it is usually grown as an annual by leaving it outdoors in a pot and tossing it in the trash when blooms fade. This is poor gardeing practice. Mums last much longer if you plant them. They are easy to grow. Give them a hole three times the size of the root ball, enrich the soil with compost or aged manure and give them plenty of water. When blossoms die, cover it with a foot of dry mulch for winter. Remove mulch and cut back in spring after new growth emerges. Your mums will double or triple in size the second season, or be ready to divide into new plants in spring.

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Mulching Tips
Mulching is an excellent way to conserve soil moisture, reduce competition from other plants, and prevent lawn mower injury. Two inches of mulch is the appropriate depth for 2-3 inch caliper trees. Later applications to “refresh” mulch should not increase the depth. Keep the mulch away from the trunk. Avoid thick layers of mulch around the base of the tree (often called “volcano mulching”), as far too often seen in landscapes. Do not pile the extra soil around the base of the tree and use mulch to hide it – excess soil should be removed from the planting site. Avoid organic material that can mat down and create a hydrophobic layer.

From “Arborist News” Vol.14, Number 2, April 2005
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What is Mushroom Compost?

Mushroom compost is made by mushroom growers using organic materials such as hay, straw, corn cobs and hulls, and poultry or horse manure. Additional materials like gypsum, peat moss and lime, may be added.

Mushroom compost can be used as a soil amendment for lawns, gardens, and container plants with caution due to its high soluble salt levels. It is important to blend it well with existing soil at about a rate of 25% compost to 75% soil.

The beneficial uses of mushroom compost far outweigh the downside of high salt levels. This type of compost is reasonably inexpensive, enriches soil, supplies nutrients for healthy growth and increases the water-holding capacity.

Mushroom compost is suitable for most garden plants. It supports various types of plant growth, from fruits and vegetables to herbs and flowers. To get the greatest results when organic gardening with mushroom compost, thoroughly mix it in with the garden soil prior to planting or allow it to sit over winter and apply in spring.

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Gift/Rewards Cards
     Cross Creek Gift Cards

Pick yours up today or call. We can mail it to you or your intended recipient.
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Plantskydd Animal Repellent
     Plantskydd® Deer Repellent

New - All Natural Swedish animal repellent,
provides plants with up to 6 months of protection against browse damage!


Plantskydd® Deer Repellent is a Proven, Effective Protection for Garden Plants and Shrubs from Deer, Elk, Moose, Opossum, and Rabbit.

Plantskydd Deer Repellent is considered the most cost-effective and environmentally safe animal repellent available. Plantskydd is accepted and used by leading forest companies, nurseries, private woodlot owners, landscapers, and home gardeners, as well as State/Provincial and National Conservation agencies.

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Plants Resistant to Deer
This is only a guide. Deer may eat anything at any time.
Perennials Shrubs Trees
  • Achillea (Yarrow)
  • Ajuga
  • Alchemilla (Ladys Mantle)
  • Aquilegia (Columbine)
  • Armeria martima (Thrift)
  • Artemesia (Wormwood)
  • Astilbe (False Spirea)
  • Campsis Radicans (Trumpet Vine)
  • Celastrus (Bittersweet)
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Clematis
  • Coreopsis
  • Dicentra (Bleeding Heart)
  • Echinacea (Cone Flower)
  • Geranium sanguineum (Geranium)
  • Hydrangea Petiolaris (Climbing)
  • Iris Sibirica (Siberian Iris)
  • Lavendula (Lavender)
  • Liatris (Gayfeather)
  • Monarda (Beebalm)
  • Paeonia (Peony)
  • Parthenocissus (Boston Ivy)
  • Perovskia Russian Sage)
  • Rudbeckia (Browneyed Susan)
  • Salvia (Meadow Sage)
  • Sedum
  • Veronica (Speedwell)
  • Wisteria
  • Acer (Maple)
  • Betula (Birch)
  • Carpinus (Hornbeam)
  • Cercis (Redbud)
  • Cornus (Dogwood)
  • Crataegus (Hawthorn)
  • Fagus (Beech)
  • Fraxinus (Ash)
  • Ginkgo biloba (Ginkgo)
  • Gleditsia triacanthos (Honey Locust)
  • Gymnocladus dioica (Kentucky Coffee Tree)
  • Larix (Larch)
  • Liquidambar styraciflua (Sweet Gum Tree)
  • Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Tree)
  • Magnolia (Magnolia)
  • Nyssa sylvatica (Black/Sour Gum)
  • Picea (Spruce)
  • Platanus (Planetree)
  • Quercus (Oak)
  • Salix (Willow)
  • Tilia (Linden)
  • Ulmus (Elm)
  • Zelkova (Zelkova)
  • Berberis (Barberry)
  • Buxus (Boxwood)
  • Caryopteris (Blue Mist)
  • Chaenomeles (Quince)
  • Clethra (Summersweet)
  • Cotoneaster
  • Cotinus (Smoke Bush)
  • Forsythia
  • Hamamelis (Witch Hazel)
  • Hydrangea
  • Ilex glabra (Inkberry)
  • Juniperus (most Juniper)
  • Lonicera (Honeysuckle)
  • Myrica pennsylvanica (Bayberry)
  • Philadelphus (Mock Orange)
  • Pinus mugho (Mugho Pine)
  • Pieris japonica (Jap. Andromeda)
  • Potentilla
  • Spirea
  • Symphoricarpos (Coralberry)
  • Syringa (Lilac)
  • Viburnum
  • Wiegela
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Garden and House Plants Potentially Harmful To Pets
Please don't assume that this list is complete. The plants listed here range in toxicity and some may cause death, while others will only cause mild irritation. If you have a question about specific plant. a plant not on the list, or a possible poisoning, please call a veterinarian or contact the National Animal Poison Control Center for further information (they charge a fee for the call). Or call Kansas State University's Poison Control Hotline (For Animals Only) - Phone: 785 -523-5679

This is a free service for both pet owners and veterinarians.

Also: University of Illinois Pet Poison Hotline: 217-333-3611

University of Georgia Pet Poison Hotline: 404-542-6751

Potentially Harmful To Cats
  • Aloe Vera
  • Alocasia
  • Amaryllis
  • Asparagus Fern
  • Azalea
  • Baby's Breath
  • Baneberry
  • Beech
  • Belladonna
  • Bird of Paradise
  • Bittersweet
  • Black-eyed Susan
  • Black Locust
  • Bleeding Heart
  • Bluebonnet
  • Boxwood
  • Branching Ivy
  • Buckeyes
  • Burning Bush
  • Buttercup
  • Caladium
  • Calla Lily
  • Castor Bean
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Clematis
  • Cornflower
  • Corn Plant
  • Corydalis
  • Crocus, Autumn
  • Crown of Thorns
  • Cycads
  • Cyclamen
  • Daffodil
  • Daphne
  • Datura
  • Daylily
  • Deadly Nightshade
  • Death Camas
  • Devil's Ivy
  • Delphinium
  • Dicentra
  • Dieffenbachia
  • Dracaena Palm
  • Dragon Tree
  • Dumb Cane
  • Easter Lily
  • Elderberry
  • Elephant Ear
  • English Ivy
  • Eucalyptus
  • Euonymus
  • Evergreen
  • Ferns
  • Fiddle-leaf fig
  • Flax
  • Four O'Clock (Mirabilis)
  • Foxglove
  • Geranium
  • German Ivy
  • Dumb Cane
  • Glacier Ivy Golden Chain
  • Gopher Purge
  • Hahn's Self-Branching Ivy
  • Hellebore
  • Hemlock, Poison
  • Hemlock, Water
  • Henbane
  • Holly
  • Honeysuckle
  • Horsebeans
  • Horsebrush
  • Hurricane Plant
  • Hyacinth
  • Hydrangea
  • Indian Rubber Plant
  • Indian Tobacco
  • Iris
  • Iris Ivy
  • Jack in the Pulpit
  • Japanese Show Lily *
  • Jerusalem Cherry
  • Jimson Weed
  • Jonquil
  • Jungle Trumpets
  • Kalanchoe
  • Lantana
  • Larkspur
  • Lily
  • Lily Spider
  • Lily of the Valley
  • Locoweed
  • Lupine
  • Marble Queen
  • Marigold
  • Marijuana
  • Mistletoe
  • Mock Orange
  • Monkshood
  • Moonseed
  • Morning Glory
  • Mother-in Law's Tongue
  • Morning Glory
  • Mountain Laurel
  • Mushrooms
  • Narcissus
  • Needlepoint Ivy
  • Nephytis
  • Nightshade
  • Oleander
  • Onion
  • Pencil Cactus
  • Peony
  • Periwinkle
  • Philodendron
  • Pimpernel
  • Poinciana
  • Poinsettia (low toxicity)
  • Poison Hemlock
  • Pokeweed
  • Poppy
  • Pothos
  • Primrose
  • Privet, Common
  • Rhododendron
  • Rhubarb
  • Ribbon Plant
  • Rosary Pea
  • Rubber Plant
  • Sago Palm
  • Schefflera
  • Scotch Broom
  • Skunk Cabbage
  • Snowdrops
  • Snow on the Mountain
  • Staggerweed
  • Star of Bethlehem
  • String of Pearls
  • Sweetheart Ivy
  • Sweetpea
  • Swiss Cheese plant
  • Tansy Mustard
  • Taro Vine
  • Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem and leaves)
  • Tulip
  • Tung Tree
  • Virginia Creeper
  • Water Hemlock
  • Weeping Fig
  • Wild Call
  • Wisteria
  • Yews spp.
Potentially Harmful To Dogs
  • Apricot
  • Azalea
  • Bird of Paradise
  • Boston Ivy
  • Caladium
  • Creeping Charlie
  • Castor Bean
  • Choke Cherry
  • Daffodil
  • Daphne
  • English Ivy
  • Foxglove
  • Glacier Ivy
  • Heartleaf
  • Hemlock, Water
  • Hyacinth
  • Hydrangea
  • Jerusalem Cherry
  • Jimson Weed
  • Johnsongrass
  • Jonquil
  • Lantana
  • Lily-of-the-Valley
  • Mandrake
  • Mistletoe
  • Morning Glory
  • Marble Queen
  • Narcissus
  • Nightshade
  • Nephthytis, Arrowhead Vine
  • Oats
  • Pigweed, Redroot
  • Poinsettia
  • Pokeweed, Inkberry
  • Parlor Ivy
  • Red Sage
  • Rhododendron
  • Rhubarb
  • Red Princess
  • Saddleleaf
  • Solanum
  • Tulip
  • Umbrella Plant
  • Yews

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